Paris, France – For fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, the tragic fire that ravaged Notre Dame Cathedral in April 2019 sparked a deep, personal connection to the historic monument. As he watched the flames consume the cathedral, he felt an overwhelming urge to help, but it wasn’t until an emissary from the Paris Archbishop approached him that his role in the cathedral’s rebirth took shape.
Castelbajac, who has long-standing ties to the church, was asked to design the liturgical garments for the cathedral’s highly anticipated reopening in December 2024. Reflecting on the opportunity, he described it as “a calling,” emphasizing the deep spiritual connection he felt. “It’s bigger than a job… it’s synchronicity,” he said, visibly moved as he previewed the colorful creations for 700 celebrants at his Paris home.
The designer’s collection was crafted in collaboration with the esteemed 19M studio artisans, using thick off-white Scottish wool gabardine to merge his bold pop-art aesthetic with medieval touches in honor of the cathedral’s ancient legacy. His designs, characterized by vivid colors and minimalist approaches, are a striking departure from the traditionally ornate liturgical garments associated with Notre Dame. At the heart of each garment is a large gold cross, set against vivid color-blocked velvet shards of red, blue, yellow, and green.
“It’s something that is exploded that reconstructs itself,” Castelbajac said, drawing a parallel between the shattered, vibrant pieces and the cathedral’s own resurrection.
The commission was not a public competition but a direct invitation, owing to Castelbajac’s previous designs for the church, including the rainbow-colored robes worn by Pope John Paul II for World Youth Day in 1997. These robes were later enshrined in Notre Dame as a relic, and Castelbajac’s emotional connection to the church made him the ideal candidate for this pivotal moment.
During the 2019 fire, Castelbajac, watching from a distance with his wife, feared for the relics and the future of the cathedral, feeling a profound loss. “It was not Notre Dame burning. It was hope burning,” he said. For Castelbajac, the garments represent more than just design; they symbolize continuity and renewal, infused with the bright, optimistic hues that have defined his career.
Having grown up in a military boarding school in Normandy, Castelbajac’s early exposure to color in stained glass windows and heraldic shields became a lifeline during his lonely, colorless childhood. This love of color later became the cornerstone of his fashion legacy, making him known as a provocateur in the industry, blending art and fashion with exuberance.
While his designs have been worn by pop icons like Madonna, Beyoncé, and Rihanna, his work for Notre Dame carries deeper significance, both personally and spiritually. Despite the potential controversy among traditionalists, Castelbajac has confidence in the trust placed in him by the Archbishop of Paris, who gave him the freedom to express his vision.
As Notre Dame reopens in early December, Castelbajac hopes the vestments will be seen not only as a reflection of the cathedral’s enduring legacy but as a symbol of hope, unity, and the power of color to inspire and heal, much like the newly restored rooster perched atop the cathedral’s spire.
Source: AP News
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